Maybe he works for Nvidia? Nice one, that is all kinds of awesome! Looks like a lot of 4 or 8 core systems folding a lot of SMP work units. Really big team of 1. The fourth beta really fucked up my configuration when trying to add new slots - every slot would take the ID "-1", which would cause it to freak out and kill them all. So I reverted back a version, and finally managed to get my second graphics card to start folding.
My employer has donated a lot of electricity over the years, not to mention equipment in various forms. Without that backing I'd probably have just a few video cards folding. Any idea of who that person is? Think of the power, let's say those multicore systems use watts an hour each, which is not unreasonable. That's 3, KW every day. I give him another month or two before someone turns off his power consumption. He's greenlit by someone Holy shit, installing a second card halved my PPD.
What the fuuuuuuuuck. I updated to the forceware drivers, I've cut back the overclocking, I've switched it back to PCI-E slot 0 from slot 1, where it originally sat by itself due to an issue with my wireless card. I don't know what else to do. So, its the French taxpayer footing the electricity bill. I guess they are in between projects.
How do I unfuck this? Maybe they have a line to one of their nuclear power plants. If I were you I would ditch whatever client you are using and move to the command line client.
It is by far the easiest way to get setup and running if you have a little experience. You can also choose to have things run as a service at startup, though I don't do that because it makes troubleshooting harder. I'm running the latest V7 beta now. The commandline client is seriously better, though? Re: [TER] Folding home. Home thread. Burned wrote:. I have passed ,, points! SkyCaptain wrote:. Posted: Sat Sep 03, pm. Posted: Sun Sep 04, am. Posted: Sun Sep 04, pm.
Posted: Mon Sep 05, pm. Posted: Tue Sep 06, pm. Registered: Aug 7, Posts: Posted: Thu Sep 15, pm. The length is still appropriate, but the width is a little bit too large. With scissors and a tube of rubber solvent I will tune it to its new shape. Dear ChrisO Applying the colorless wax and talcum made the inner surface of the newly acquired very used skin tough and dry, the frame does not stick.
But the boat is still inhouse and I have no idea what will happen under the direct sunlight. Merry Pentecoast Sergej. I got no reply from patcool and have been away a bit in the past two months, so sorry not to have replied. But I noticed a helpful remark of Poul's just now on re-waterproofing seasocks here.
Is there any reason you can see why I shouldn't try a bar of this 'greenland wax', 'Made from high-quality paraffin and beeswax', just to see if it might have a beneficial effect on my Klepper T6's stiff skin? Apparently it is sold to re-waterproof waxed cotton jackets, and now I know what to look for I've found various other possible products.
That said, price is relevant, especially when trying to do something as large as a Klepper. I wonder if one could just buy some paraffin or turpentine and dilute the 'Gold Label' to get the same effect. Any thoughts? All my attempts to gain any information about the solvents used in the wax of the old days did not succeed. My joker is my old boss, as a chemist his nose is calibrated and I hope he will be able to identify the solvent by just smelling it.
I use wax for my homemade canvas backpacks and my oil skin jacket from Australia. There are two different formulations available: One for the lazy bone and one for the fancier. The first is solved in organic solvents and is sprayed on the surface, the latter one must be melted and applied wich a cotton.
After application the canvas has to be heated which a hair blower to help the wax to disseminate and penetrate. The spray is sold in tiny bottles, too expensive for a whole T6, and the latter does not seem to contain any solvent. I do not remember where but some guy suggested to use floor polish. If one has no spare part of an old rubber skin to test it is a little bit dangerous because of the irreversibility of possible damages. And even if you can test, how to know anything about a possible slow degradation induced by the treatment?
I'm sorry but I have no experience with the wax you suggested and therefore can not honestly promote the application. As I told I have a very used old skin for my T67 which I use temporarily to keep the homemade skin safe as long as my son is not so experienced in avoiding ground contact. I could apply some of my cotton wax to it and see what happens, if this might help you. In the meantime I could buy a cheap Klepper photo bag from which is unused and very soft and air tight.
It has nearly the same size as the Klepper backrest cushion and I can use it for that purpose. My home made solution transforming a Chinese inflatable cushion into the new shape has not been finished until today. Kind regards Sergej. I have bought the cheaper wax now in a larger tub and am thinking I'll probably give it a go next week when my wife is away and I'll have the house to myself. The conservatory gets quite warm at this time of year so I'm thinking that should be good for softening the wax and helping it penetrate.
The skin is stiff as a board, but otherwise not too cracked or damaged, though I suspect the corners where it is folded may crack a little when I unfold it.
Perhaps those are the best places to start applying the wax and seeing what happens. My thinking is that the worst is that I'll have to throw away the rubber hull, which can't presently be used anyway. The cotton deck can be reused and I'm willing to try sewing a homemade pvc hull to it if I wreck the rubber one.
I've an old Tyne Prefect skin I may try it on too, if I've any spare; though that seems to be delaminating, so again I'm a bit doubtful Still, well worth a try, and it is great to hear that it has worked on your old skin in the past! All the best, Ian. I just finished painting our kitchen and picked up a huge roll of paper at the paint shop, about a meter wide and fairly heavy in weight to mask the floor etc.
It just occurred to me that this paper would be great for tracing patterns on. I threw out an AEII hull a couple years ago which I disassembled first, keeping the rubber end caps, some of the better rubber for patches? Wish I had thought to make a pattern at that time. The top deck was shot as well but not terrible. I kept it, separated the bow and stern pieces and currently use them inside my T9, bow and stern, to keep that frame from sticking to the rubber.
Works Ok. Sewing your own skin is really a drudgery. New posts. Search forums. Log in. Install the app. Contact us. Close Menu. JavaScript is disabled. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding. You are using an out of date browser.
It may not display this or other websites correctly. You should upgrade or use an alternative browser.
0コメント